clean air, quiet woods and a way of life that has changed little for centuries. The Sami, the native people of the region, still live there as well as travellers watch drum songs, bright felt clothes and reindeer herding much as it was long ago. At night, green or violet curtains of light ripple across the sky - local people call them the Northern Lights.
Most visitors arrive between December besides March. Before the trip, check if you need a visa for any of the four countries, reserve a room early and pack a waterproof coat, thick thermal underwear also boots rated for minus thirty. Read the safety rules - tell someone where you go, carry a phone and keep spare clothes in a dry bag. Cold numbs the mind - decide in advance how you will react if a storm hits or a snowmobile breaks down.
Ski trails cut through silent forest, huskies pull sleds at speed next to reindeer draw slower sleighs that squeak across the snow. Each trip gives a close look at land that has no roads. On a reindeer safari, a Sami guide shows how to approach the animals, how to hitch them to a low wooden sleigh and how to sit still so the herd follows the lead animal. The route passes frozen bogs plus dark spruce - stops at a campfire where the guide tells old stories while coffee simmers and thin bread toasts.
Small Sami villages welcome guests to wooden cabins but also to dome shaped huts built from snow blocks. Reindeer hides cover benches and a single stove keeps the air warm. Visitors help split firewood, fetch water from a hole in the ice as well as twist wool yarn on a handheld spindle. A woman in a blue and red felt tunic shows how to weave a patterned band that once decorated a reindeer harness.
Food comes from the land. Reindeer steaks sizzle over open fire, whitefish or trout are pulled through a hole in the lake ice and rye crusts are filled with salted fish also pork fat. A pot of root vegetables and reindeer bones simmers all day giving off rich steam. To drink, locals pour hot cranberry juice sweetened with birch syrup or melt chunks of dark chocolate into thick cocoa. Each cup warms hands next to chest after hours outside.
Some visitors come only to watch the sky flare green - others want to race a dog team or simply sit among people who still greet the dawn with a yoik song. Whatever the reason, the mix of deep snow, quiet forest and living Sami custom leaves a strong memory that does not fade when the plane lifts off the white runway.
Nathan Price
· 16/10/2025