Discovering the magic of Dushanbe: a guide for first-time travelers

Dushanbe, the lively capital of Tajikistan, is a place many foreign tourists pass by. The city keeps old traditions alive while adding new buildings and services. Travelers find clear signs of past centuries, green views and friendly people who greet strangers with tea plus a smile.

Long ago, camel caravans stopped here on the Silk Road. Wide Soviet blocks stand next to blue domed mosques and plane trees shade parks that face snow topped peaks. Planes land at Dushanbe International Airport from Istanbul, Moscow, Delhi and a few other hubs. A ride to town costs a few dollars in a yellow cab - shared minivans called marshrutkas run set routes for even less - rental cars wait outside the terminal.

Independence Square holds a tall bronze statue of Ismail al-Samani - couples walk past fountains but also rose beds until late evening. One block away, Rudaki Park lines a straight path of benches and lanterns. The National Museum of Tajikistan fills three floors with stone idols, silk robes besides Soviet posters. The Botanical Garden gates open to quiet paths under oaks and poplars. Gumbs Bazaar spreads under tin roofs - vendors sell walnuts, dried apricots, embroidered hats as well as goat cheese by the kilo.

Tajik food draws on Persian stews, Russian broths or Turkish bread. A plate of plov steams with rice, lamb and shredded carrot. A sweet wheat pudding, simmers all night before New Year. Flat loaves of non leave clay ovens at dawn and sell while still warm.

The Vanj Mountains rise two hours south by road - trails lead past shepherd huts or alpine lakes. Lake Iskandar Kul sits in a limestone bowl - water reflects cliffs and eagles circle overhead. Tents go up on grassy banks for a night under stars.

Tajik is the state tongue - yet most shopkeepers answer in Russian. A greeting of “Salom” and a price written on paper work fine. Police keep a calm watch - violent crime is rare. A clean hostel bed costs ten dollars - a full lunch of soup, kebab also tea runs three. Dushanbe rewards visitors with stories, tastes and views they carry home for years.