Have you ever wondered what Sana'a is like? What is its history? Have you noticed the urban details that spread across the city — its distinctive features, the remarkable genius in its design, and the striking urban beauty Sana'a has preserved over the years?
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In this article, we take a journey through the fascinating events of Sana'a's ancient history: who she is, how she was formed, and some of the city's mysterious secrets.
Sana'a — the irresistible city with its ancient history and rich civilization — has long inspired historians and poets. For 3,000 years Sana'a has been a precious box of mysteries and secrets. Some historians even claim it is the oldest city after the Flood.
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Archaeological research in the area dates back more than 1.6 million years, and some traditions say that the city’s construction began with Shem, son of Noah, peace be upon him. Others attribute its foundation to the reign of King Amr of Sheba and the Rada in the years 140–150 of the Sheba calendar, or about 1070–1080 BCE.
Because of its strategic location, Sana'a controlled trade routes between the Kingdom of Sheba in Marib and the Tihama coast on the Red Sea. By the second century CE, Sana'a had become a seat of power and the capital of the ancient kingdom of Yemen.
Conflicts between regional states eventually brought Sana'a under the influence of the Abbasid Caliphate (749–1258). The Abbasids played an important role in the city's early history: between 765 and 800 CE, Sana'a saw eighteen governors rotate through office.
As part of the caliphate's efforts to assert control, Harun al-Rashid sent Hammad al-Barbari to Sana'a during his campaign to expand Abbasid influence in the region, which contributed to the city's prosperity.
In 819, Caliph al-Ma'mun appointed al-Hakim ibn Ziyad to restore order in the coastal plain and founded the city of Zabid, which became the capital of Lower Yemen and a lasting cultural center.
The Banu Ziyad or Zaidi rulers then emerged, governing roughly from 819 to 1018 CE, with Sana'a serving as a strong base for control over much of Yemen. Later, the Rasulid dynasty (1229–1454) regarded the city as a crucial strategic camp for its forces, underscoring Sana'a's importance in that era.
The Yazafari dynasty, which separated from the Abbasid Caliphate after battles with Ziyadi forces in 819 CE, considered Sana'a its capital; its jurisdiction extended from Yemen to Hadramawt and lasted until around 1000 CE.
During this period, the city's architecture took on a distinctly early Islamic character influenced by the Umayyad and Abbasid caliphates. The Great Mosque was among the earliest constructions, followed by cemeteries and the Eid prayer pavilion. The city walls were restored and seven gates were added.
In the Ayyubid era the city expanded westward, with the Sultan's orchard and the ruler's residence built on the southern bank of the two rivers.
Mosques are among the Islamic architectures that new Muslim communities established quickly in conquered lands to consolidate Islamic values and beliefs.
In Sana'a, the Great Mosque is one of the oldest. It was built at the beginning of the spread of Islam and is said to have been founded by Marwa bin Misk al-Muradi or Iban bin Saeed bin al-Aas. The mosque bears witness to the early spread of Islam in Yemen and marks an important milestone in the development of Islamic architecture in the region.
The mosque began as a simple structure and developed over time, undergoing several phases of renovation and expansion under the Umayyad and Abbasid rulers. It has a simple rectangular plan and is notable for its elegant architectural and decorative work, which gives it great significance among Yemen's mosques.
The mosque contains Kufic and naskh inscriptions and refined decorations, making it one of Yemen's most important mosques in terms of both architecture and culture.
Yemen lived under Ottoman rule, as it had earlier under the Umayyads and Abbasids. From 1539 to 1918 CE the Ottomans sought to free Yemen from Portuguese influence and to develop its infrastructure.
They established hospitals, schools, and other institutions, and built and restored forts and mosques. Yemeni students were also sent to study at a boarding school in Istanbul called the Arab Tribes School, where they received five years of education and were provided with necessary services and expenses.
Notable landmarks from that period include Dar al-Sanayeh, the Command and Staff College, and the Ardhi Complex, which now houses the Ministry of Defense. The Ottomans also built the neighborhood known today as Souq al-Sabbah and other attractive districts to the east and west.
This vast legacy of historical architecture in Old Sana'a has preserved the city's cultural and architectural fabric over the years, making Sana'a a living example of an Islamic city with striking beauty and charming ornamentation. What distinguishes it are the harmonious colors, prominent geometric forms, and other details we will explore in the next section.
In the heart of Sana'a there are many varied aesthetic details that preserve a unique architectural character. This mastery tells stories and secrets that are hard for a visitor to fully grasp: each stone has a history and each color carries a tale stretching back more than 700 years.
A key feature of ancient Yemeni architecture is the variety of building materials, which led to a range of construction techniques. One of the most important of these materials is the yajur stone, which is lighter than many other stones.
It is also one of the secrets behind the wonderful houses of Old Sana'a:
1. It facilitates the construction of additional floors.
2. It traps heat during the day, keeping houses warm on cold nights.
3. Plaster is used in construction to resist cracking, erosion, and washout from rain, and roofs are covered with plaster to help drain water.
The Yemenis' love of architecture made them masters of building with traditional materials, creating façades that do not lose their charm over time. Modern technologies have yet to match their beauty, and Sana'a has remained true to its craft and splendor, telling future generations an inspiring story of Yemen's unique civilization, history, and architecture.
Old Sana'a is known for elaborate gypsum decoration in prominent elements such as frames, doors, windows, and the boundaries between floors. The city’s contiguous, overlapping houses form a unique urban fabric carefully designed around social, security, climatic, and economic needs.
The city's climate shaped its building patterns: summers are hot while winters are relatively cool. That led residents to build homes close together to protect exterior walls from prolonged sun exposure, while pedestrians benefit from narrow streets that shield them from direct sunlight.
Windows facing seating areas, the maqayel, and the mafaraj (a room built above the house) are oriented south to receive warm winter winds, while service areas face north to catch cooler air.
The Old City of Sana'a features four main house types:
1. Two-storey houses.
2. Three-storey houses.
3. Four-storey houses.
4. Houses ranging from four to eight floors.
The last type, in particular, stands out for its unparalleled beauty. In this style, the ground floors are built from stone while the upper floors use yajur — a fired, reddish brick that gives these houses a special charm. As mentioned earlier, basalt stones such as jaam are used in the foundations, with turkey and black stone used at corners and for decoration. Yajur is used on upper floors because of its beauty, light weight, and strength, allowing façades to be shaped into distinctive forms.
Over centuries, local materials have shaped the city's construction, producing a remarkable visual harmony across Old Sana'a's houses and giving the city a distinctive, unified character that endures to this day.