Refined fun: grilled eel and its exciting flavors

Grilled eel is a prized seafood dish valued for its deep taste and firm yet tender flesh. The custom began in East Asia and later spread worldwide - the fish now appears on upscale menus everywhere. Cooks spent hundreds of years adjusting spices plus heat levels and the result is a meal that feels lavish.

To cook it at home, start with a first rate fish. Look for clear eyes, skin that glistens and a smell like the sea, not like old bait. Buy from a reliable fishmonger, pick the size that matches the number of guests but also check that the catch is in season. Good eel gives a clean, full flavor and a texture that pleases any seafood lover.

Set the fish over hot coals so the fat melts and bastes the meat. Rub on garlic, basil, thyme, lemon peel or a ready seafood mix for variety. Plate it with a sprinkle of fresh herbs, a side of grilled vegetables or rice tossed with a pinch of salt to balance the strong taste of the eel.

A few restaurants have built their name on grilled eel. Tokyo's Sia sticks to the old soy glaze method - La Serena in Paris folds in butter as well as white wine. The Ocean besides Costera in Sydney serve lightly charred fillets with citrus, while Los Angeles spot Equilibrio paints the plate with bright purées and bold spice blends.

In a home kitchen, the fish invites play. Dice it into a salad of mango and avocado, roll it with jalapeño or cilantro or melt garlic butter over the top and add lemon zest. A soak of soy and honey gives a sweet salty crust - a chili lime marinade adds heat also tang. Each version brings restaurant flavor to the dinner table without fuss.

Eat it at a white tablecloth spot or pull it from the backyard grill - either way, grilled eel delivers a clean taste of the sea. The meat takes on almost any seasoning - cooks keep finding new twists and seafood fans keep coming back for another bite.