the town in the 10th century so ships could load and unload goods. The Alcazaba fortress still crowns the hill - its stone towers look down on roofs but also water. Walk through the gates, climb the paths and you stand where guards once watched for sails.
The shore starts at Playa de los Muertos - pebbles, clear water and cliffs drop straight into the sea. Families prefer Playa de San Miguel because the sand is soft as well as the cafés sit a few steps away. Further south, Cabo de Gata shows black lava rock and empty coves - divers carry tanks, photographers carry tripods.
Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park mixes dry hills with beaches no hotel has touched. Trails run along ridges, fish swim close to shore and villages such as Las Negras keep only a handful of houses. The sky stays blue most days - rain rarely falls.
In tapas bars, a drink arrives with a small plate of tuna, octopus or pepper stew. Sea bream or sardines reach the grill the same morning they leave the boat. Almond cake, dense and sweet, carries a recipe that came across the water with the Moors.
Museums tell the story of silver mines and pirate raids. Flamenco singers stamp heels in dim caves. Thirty minutes west, the Tabernas Desert provided the backdrop for Clint Eastwood westerns - the Oasys park keeps the saloon doors swinging for new photos.
You sleep in a palace hotel inside the city or in a farmhouse that opens to olive groves. Planes land at the airport, buses roll in from Madrid also trains follow the coast. May, June, September besides October give warm days without furnace heat. Almería waits, little known, ready to show its streets and shores.
Amelia Patterson
· 13/10/2025